I don't have time, but I do have taste.
Halloween comes with an overwhelming pressure: a pressure to be sexy or silly, to rally a group together for a party, or to convince a reluctant beau to hard launch in a couple's costume. But every niche fashion girl knows the most intense pressure of all: the desire to be niche.
What is the perfect IYKYK costume? And how niche is too niche? Because really, there’s no point in dressing up if you have to spend all night explaining your costume over loud music, or in the dark, or to a boy who probably doesn’t actually care. He just won’t understand! These costumes are for the girls, and, most of all, they’re for you.
I’ve curated an elite list of iconic fashion and art moments that can be executed in a few days, hours, and some even in a few minutes. Each idea allows for some personal interpretation so that you don’t need to place any overnight online orders, but some might require a run to your closest Spirit Halloween. This list is organized from least to most effort and materials required.
Phoebe Philo
You need: Turtleneck, black trousers, white sneakers
Phoebe is one designer with a distinct uniform that can be easily adopted after a few minutes of digging through your or your roommate’s closets. Top it off by tucking your hair into a turtleneck, the chicest hairstyle of all. She always wears her white sneakers, a staple I know you have, and you can avoid conversation for most of the night by imitating the furtive mystery that she maintains despite being such a prolific fashion figure. This costume may raise some eyebrows as it doesn’t look like much of a costume, but the girls who get it, well, they get it.
Jane Birkin
You need: White T-shirt, tailored jeans, wicker basket, bangs (optional), a Serge Gainsbourg (optional)
Jane Birkin is the ultimate simple cool girl — and it’s a look easily achieved in just a few minutes. You can switch up her look by wearing a white shift dress, or tights under shorts, but the wicker basket is what’s most required for this to be a successful Halloween look. Bangs are a plus if you have them, and you can opt for a blowout if you want, but the Birkin look is best achieved with as little effort as possible. This outfit can be converted to a couple’s costume if you have a second half who tousles their hair, pops the collar of a slightly unbuttoned collared shirt beneath a blazer, and chain-smokes Gitanes cigarettes all night long as Serge Gainsbourg.
Marina Abramović and Ulay, Rest Energy (1980)
You need: White button up, black skirt, black stockings, black shoes, a bow, a beau
This look can be executed solo but it’s better with a partner, especially if you have an incredibly tragic and complicated romantic relationship with them. Bonus points if they make you cry. A bow and arrow can be purchased at most Halloween stores, but I’d recommend leaving the arrow at home so that there’s no risk of a punctured heart when alcohol is inevitably consumed. A broken heart may not be easily avoidable though, so proceed into this costume with caution, and prioritize fun over flirting. If you do this look on your own and spot a fellow art nerd of interest, invite them to pull your bow’s string to reenact this piece and start a conversation.
Perry Ellis by Marc Jacobs, Spring/Summer 1993
You need: Florals, flannels, black boots
This iconic collection may have gotten Marc Jacobs fired from Perry Ellis, but you will surely be the niche queen at any party you attend. This was the beginning of grunge on the runway against the ‘90s backdrop of Kurt Cobain and Courtney Love, so there’s no wrong way to recreate these looks yourself. Simply combine stripes, florals, plaids, silver jewelry, and skull caps until you reach a state of Nirvana. It’s easily adapted to a group costume if several of your grungy girlfriends want to join in, and similar to the Birkin effect, the less effort you put in the better. Just layer, layer, layer.
Naomi Campbell doing community service in Dolce & Gabbana (2007)
You need: Silver dress, heels, orange construction vest (optional)
Model Naomi Campbell was sentenced to five days of community service and anger management courses after admitting to throwing her phone at her maid. She finished her hours with the sanitation department in New York City, and on her final day of service, she famously arrived in a silver Dolce & Gabbana gown. The dress is now displayed in the “NAOMI: In Fashion” exhibition at The Victoria and Albert Museum in London. She truly went out in style, and that’s why this is a great last-minute Halloween costume (actual Dolce not required). Throw on a sparkly silver dress and heels, and take some artistic liberty by adding a bright orange construction vest, perhaps even a hard hat. If you’re feeling crazy, get one of those trash pokers. It might require a day to gather the supplies, but this moment is silly yet still stylish.
Liv Tyler & Stella McCartney at the Met Gala (1999)
You need: White tank tops, Sharpies, a brunette, a redhead
The moment when I knew I’d met my best friend in New York City was when we both simultaneously said that we’d been dying to do this Halloween costume. You can get as granular as you want with it. She and I bought white tank tops, cut one sleeve off, glued studs over our meticulous Sharpied letters, and even laced up the sides like Liv and Stella did. I wore a black skirt and she wore brown trousers. I even wore green earrings. Our height difference also contributed to this costume turning out perfectly. If you have less time and dedication, a simple Sharpie on a tank top works — because this costume is all about the graphic shirts as an homage to the original rock royalty.
Shalom Harlow for Alexander McQueen (1999)
You need: Bedsheet, tutu, belt, spray paint
Perhaps the fashion moment of all fashion moments, you are undertaking a legacy by choosing to recreate this look. It requires some arts and crafts, along with sacrificing some bedding, but who uses a top sheet anyway? All that’s required is some black and yellow spray paint on a white fabric layered over a tutu, secured on your bust with a buckled belt. For the ultimate McQueen effect, I recommend slicking your hair down, extending your arms, and wandering hauntingly throughout the night as if you’ve just been violated by robots with spray cans. You must embody the entire moment, not just the look.
No matter what costumes you choose for Halloween, whether they’re sultry or modest, comical or horrific, a fashion moment will always be remembered. An unknown costume can be the best conversation starter. Or the love of your life might find you in a crowd because they also happen to love Phoebe Philo’s era at Celine (just kidding, this only happens in movies). There are so many costume options that are neither angels nor devils, so I encourage you to be unique and inspired, because the sexiest thing a girl can be on Halloween is a niche reference. 🌀
Jane Lewis is HALOSCOPE's Runway Editor based in New York City. She grew up on farms in Southern California but now she always matches her shoes to her bag.