The FW24 collection is FUN, and we love fun.
With fun combinations of lace, fishnet crochet, and tailoring, the Diotima FW24 collection remained cohesive while disrupting expectations — a relief compared to what we have seen elsewhere this season. It moves completely away from quiet luxury, the Mob Wife aesthetic, and the boardroom-ready power girly looks and instead dives deep into tried-and-true aesthetic territory: dressing the artists, the poets, and the rebels.
The collection is relatively simple, playing with few elements and repeating them throughout. Nevertheless, it lands fresh and exciting, in great part due to designer Rachel Scott taking current trends and subverting them wittily. For example, instead of regurgitating the pantless looks we’ve seen everywhere since last year, the Diotima FW24 pantless look is built with a cheeky, completely see-through white lace microskirt. Layering pieces like coats are embellished with fringe at the waistline, an unexpected and whimsical addition. Cutouts on dresses function like ersatz polka-dott patterns, instead of the more expected cold shoulder or waist cutout.
Thanks to this simplicity, it’s a collection that feels cohesive without being stiff. A color palette mainly comprised of neutrals with pops of pink, maroon, and yellow, helps create the structure necessary for more mischievous ideas. It is easy to picture mixing and matching items from within the collection; everything, even the more outré pieces, would work with everything because the looks carry personality and weight. Sometimes it feels like brands have lost sight of the possibility that a collection can represent a single person’s entire wardrobe, instead of hero items that appeal to different people. These clothes were designed with the Diotima woman in mind, and she’s daring and unafraid. 🌀
You can view the whole collection here.
Laura Rocha-Rueda is a Colombian fashion and fiction writer based in Brooklyn who holds a Creative Writing MFA from The New School. She is your local Swiftie and will gladly chat about anything glittery and soft, and about why dismissing pop culture as frivolous is misguided and sad.