In case you’re ballet flat-maxxed.
Do you own everything on Vogue’s essential fashion items list? Even if you don’t, there’s a high chance you’d be able to name them: the white tee, the perfect pair of jeans, the signature gold hoops.
The capsule wardrobe has long been advertised as the be-all, end all of fashion essentials — yet, on closer inspection, you’ll find it doesn’t really pass muster. In fact, it’s not nearly as universal as it is lauded to be. To break down each wardrobe essential from its history to its purpose, alternatives can be offered for those who realise the “classic” item doesn’t complement their style or isn’t what they’re looking for.
The White Tee
The blank page of a wardrobe, the white tee has its origins as an undergarment, popularised when it was issued by the military in World War II. How scandalous would it have been to wear it as we do today? How hedonistic? When Marlon Brando starred in A Streetcar Named Desire in 1951, it was exactly these feelings that his white t-shirt evoked. It served to bolster his character, Stanley Kowalski, as the temperamental, brutish, but sexual being that he was.
It then evolved during the ‘80s and ‘90s as the perfect item to modify — logos were added to represent brands, slogans were added to represent movements, and it became an emblem of popular culture. Now, a blank white tee is the first item included in any essentials list. It calls on the understandings of the past century as a garment which you can project anything onto, whilst also serving as a neutral starting point for the rest of your outfit. Nothing will clash with a white tee, so it’s easy to see why it’s a staple.
However, its blankness can lend it to be somewhat dull, uninspiring, and lacking excitement. To counteract this, a tee or a blouse with some nice detailing can be a good substitution. This way, you’re still retaining the essence of the tee as a simplistic piece whilst adding some character to your look. The 02 Amour Organic Blouse from Luciee is a nice one as a starting point or this Lace Panel Blouse I own from & Other Stories.
Something a little more complicated is the perfect white jumper that can act as a replacement — but, then again, not really. There’s a never-ending search to find the jumper that Harry wears in When Harry Met Sally but it seems a combination of good quality, good fit, and a garment that moves well is particularly difficult to find. Personally, though not exactly white, this knitted jumper from Paloma Wool is my idea of perfection.
The Classic Jeans
Like the tee, this may seem a simple addition to your wardrobe, but styles change too often for a single recommendation to keep everyone happy. Are you a straight-cut person or are you looking for a flared style or are you a misguided individual searching for a good skinny pair (you won’t find one; it doesn’t exist)? Do you want your denim stretched or unstretched? Distressed or not?
Jean styles are expansive, but it all started with Levi’s, founded in 1853 by Levi Strauss. During the 1870s, they created blue jeans for working men, aimed at labourers who worked on ranches. Nearly a century after their inception, Levi’s would launch their “Lady Levi’s” line, which were the same as the men’s version but cut to fit women. Though this is (still) a lazy practice, it was this uniform style that became popular in the U.S.
Because of their entrenched history as workwear, jeans are difficult to replace. Therefore, a focus on style takes precedence. Not everyone wants the Levi 501 regular fit. A part of your style journey will be to find what you like and what suits you, and not just what you think you like — and this only comes with trying things on. Ganni have a nice range, in fact, they have an expansive denim collection.
If you want a more alternative style, Colin Horgan has some interesting pieces. But if you’ve sworn off all jeans, then what’s the replacement, here?
With its origins lying in workwear, there is a parallel with the modern workwear trousers. Sezane have a fantastic range of trousers in different styles, cuts, and colours. Timna Weber also has some alternative styles. If you don’t want trousers at all, you can opt for a staple skirt. As an alternative to jeans, a longer skirt is more applicable here, so opt for choosing a maxi.
The Trusty Gold Hoops
When wearing a pair of gold hoop earrings, you’ll be carrying on history dating from the Bronze Age — where hooped jewellery was plated in gold, bronze, and silver. The earliest pair of actual gold hoops were found dating to the time of the ancient Sumerians, around 2500 B.C. in what is now Modern Iraq. We have been adorning ourselves with jewellery since antiquity and, to start us off, I’ve attached some photos of my go-to gold hoops.
The focus of these earrings is not necessarily the hoop itself, but it provides an idea of the realm you can expand to. However, sticking with strictly gold hoops, there’s still a lot to decide on. Do you want a close-to-the-ear style, a pair that fully cups your ear, or ones that dangle? Do you like a tapered style or a uniform one? Big hoops or small hoops? Smaller ones offer more variety but they might seem too dainty for some. Melody Ehsani has them available in four sizes. Or if you’re looking for a place with more variety, Merjuri’s options are perfect.
A snap gold bangle works in the same way as an adornment. You could opt for a necklace or a ring. The key is to find one piece you genuinely like and wear it every day. From there, you can begin expanding or layering but you won’t understand the importance of an accessory unless you wear one consistently.
The Little Black Dress
From the mind of designer Coco Chanel came the little black dress (LBD), designed with the “Chanel woman” in mind — a woman who was classy and elegant and needed a simple dress to wear when attending parties. Accessorising the dress with a set of pearls became popular after Audrey Hepburn showcased Holly Golightly’s black dress in Breakfast at Tiffany’s (though this was designed by Givenchy, not Chanel.) Perhaps a modern day equivalent that offered more variety was Hervé Léger’s bandage dress, the dress that made everyone look amazing.
When opting for your version of the LBD, you might not choose something little, or something black, or even something that’s a dress. Lauded as the ultimate outfit for going out, the LBD has infinite variations to choose from. You might stick with the singular colour, but go for white instead. Alternatively, a patterned dress might be what you’re looking for. Or not a dress at all, but a suit. Discovery awaits — from AllSaints to Reformation.
The Well-Worn Flats
Flat shoes with a pointed toe were worn by the nobility during the Renaissance period — the higher up the status of the noble, the pointier the shoe. Throughout the centuries, they became associated with ballet, hence the new branch of “ballet flats,” characterised by their square-toe shape and strap. The Sandy Liang Pointe Flat is a wearable ballet flat, imitating its namesake down to the folded fabric effect.
However, the function of the flat is less for it to actually be flat, but more as a comfortable everyday shoe in your wardrobe. It can be substituted for loafers, boots, pumps, or anything else you feel good in. Carel’s heeled Mary Janes have become popular, drawing on the transition of the flat to a heeled shoe after Catherine de Medici suggested it to appear taller at her wedding. They offer their most popular Kina Mary Jane with a 4cm heel and the Ariana Mary Jane with its 2.8cm shorter heel, amongst other styles.
Personally, I own two pairs of flats in black and dusty pink, but my go-to shoes are my Vans Slip-Ons in black. They’re smart, comfortable, affordable, and, most importantly, perfect for my day-to-day life where I do a lot of walking and standing, though they’re more like my version of Doc Martens than flats, and they don’t work at all in any other situation, turning a nice outfit ugly very quickly. This is to say that one item for each section might not be enough… but when is one pair of shoes ever enough?
The Trench Coat
Fox Mulder and Dana Scully solving mysteries as they lugged themselves around wearing the most amazing trench coats flowing behind them were (and still are) a huge influence on me. Namely, the silhouette that they provided the two characters has ingrained itself in my mind. However, the trench coat of all time for me is the one Robert Redford wears in The Sting. You can just see how well-made it is and how it fits his proportions perfectly. It has movement even when he’s still. Given it’s an action crime film, the coat is worn dramatically — but the fundamentals of it are present.
Now, there’s not many alternatives to this one. For the shorter individuals who perhaps don’t want the full length of the average trench coat, there are mid-length options available. Be mindful when buying if you want the belt, the back vent, and a double breast. A lot of modern trench coats neglect to include these elements but, of course, it’s personal preference. Also be aware that modern trench coats aren’t as breathable as vintage ones, and aren’t really made to be layered on top of something, instead cut to the perfect size. Therefore, they might not look as airy or like they could function as an overcoat — unfortunately, it’s because they aren’t made to. Vintage is your best shot at finding something that fits well. London Fog have some great selections.
During university, I took a linguistics class where the word “formal” was banned — no person’s language should be marked along the invented scale of formality. A similar rule can be applied to fashion: no singular item can be classed as essential. The essentials wardrobe stops you from being a conscious consumer, instead turning you lazy as you search for supposed “must-haves” and preventing you from finding your own style. The wardrobe does work as a starting point, allowing you to understand the purpose of each item, but it shouldn’t be used as a checklist. 🌀
Aisha Zahira is a writer living in Manchester.