The Gorey Girl’s mum told her to bring a coat and she did not listen.
You would be forgiven if you’ve grown tired of the “indie sleaze” whispers circulating in fashion spaces for a while now. Luckily, there is nothing tired about Sinead Gorey’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection. Drawing heavily from the days of yesteryear, Gorey’s collection is nostalgia done right.
Set in The City of London School’s gymnasium, decked out for a classic British prom, the setting for the runway is so brilliantly executed you can almost smell the smuggled vodka. The pre-show room is drenched in hot-pink lighting and the floor is scattered with crushed paper cups and trampled confetti. A thumping bass line, courtesy of Scarlet Gorey, acts as the score for bratty attitudinal walks, wearing the newly re-released Converse XXHi.
On the show notes “the Gorey girl” is described as a prom “Anti-Heroine," who skips the prom, electing to head straight for the after-party. Gorey says she picked the prom setting as “Prom is that time in your life when you’re finally finding your style, so I wanted to recreate that using luxury shapes and constructions.” The South London designer draws on all aspects of this occasion, from school uniform blouses in butter yellow and blue pinstripe to draped jersey dresses resembling hoodies wrapped around waists on the walk home, after sleeping on the floor of your best friend’s bedroom. The Gorey Girl’s mum told her to bring a coat and she did not listen.
The SS25 collection features less of the classic Brit-Punk details previously seen in Gorey’s work –— Union Jacks, pins, and tartan — leaning instead on a pattern described as “Hacienda-esque stripes” in faded neon shades paired with heather grey or black. The colour palette has softened from previous collections and is both elevated and garish — sherbet pastels, royal blue, and warning-sign red.
There are some more classic takes on “the prom dress," but the more subversive Gorey’s anti-heroine looks, the better. A black pyramid-studded bikini reads true to inspiration. The outerwear and heavier knits are particularly well done. A graphic jacket pairs pigeon grey and crisp white UV-reactive leather. A tailored horizontally striped blue and grey co-ord set reads as surprisingly demure from the front, next to Gorey’s signature sheer cut-out rave wear, but turns to reveal a high-cut cheek. Powdery and creamy coloured knits are studded with curved barbell piercings, which I personally hope becomes a new signature of Gorey's. Some lingering coquette details, trailing satin ribbons in hair, and printed corsetting ties the collection into a larger story.
The accessories are waggish and divine, thanks to styling by Gorey and Rhiannon Lagden. A lacy white bra juts over a striped and pierced tube dress, a baby-pink phone tucked into the strap. Glow in the dark stars are stickered up calves. Tattoo appliqués are un-tastefully revealed. Crimped, curled, and coiled up-dos. A diamanté garter. The makeup, by Aoife Cullen, veers between youthfully bare-faced and black, or muted electric blue, kohl-rimmed eyes. The sprinkle lips brought a nostalgic tear to my eye and I particularly enjoyed the faux XXHi’s consisting of low-top Converse and printed knee-high socks. And, of course, an array of candy-coloured wired headphones adorn various pouting models.
Some garments unfortunately fall flatter. A bustled take on Gorey’s corset dress could’ve been a highlight but ends up feeling more like an afterthought, especially in comparison to a similar dress from FW24. Yet it shows promise, and I’m hoping to see further Gorey takes on this silhouette. And although I’m never opposed to a super-micro miniskirt, I would’ve appreciated any exposed underwear to match the collection.
Between well-tailored mini shorts and buttoned denim, cowl necks, lace corset work and ombré prints, Gorey proves her technical ability as well as creative vision. More stand-out pieces include a candy-striped tailored tube dress ending with a puffy skirt. A backless baggy-sleeved minidress in red and black stripes. And a blue and grey striped hooded minidress with a trailing skirt.
Small and large details make it clear that the SS25 collection is truly inspired by the fashion of Gorey’s own youth. (I must also commend the casting, by Marie Claire, which brings this collection to life.) More than anything, the collection feels like a fresh and fully-realised take on a previously vague discourse-laden concept that has been on everyone’s lips. Most evidenced by the fact that I left the show, not mainly thinking, “Wow, those were the times," but more impressed by Gorey’s innovative garments, and excited to see what Gorey brings to the drinks table next. 🌀 8.0