What do we want? Billowy linen blouses! When do we want them? Now!
As summer’s heat wave simmers into early Fall, I find myself still scrambling for lightweight, breezy clothing that makes me feel like a feminine little lady — and not the sweaty, swelling swamp monster I inevitably turn into every year. This, paired with Fashion’s continued focus on the “Weirdieval” trend, has me laser-focused on historical garments.
I want to feel like a long-haired, waifish woman wandering through a meadow dappled by sunlight. I want to be surrounded by a field of gentle deer while holding a wicker basket or lounging on a lakeside swing with my fingers dipping just above the surface of the water. Delicate, sun-kissed, and beautiful. Is that too much to ask?
These days, a nice-looking breathable fabric is hard to find. The garment is either too stiff and body-conscious to be comfortable or too slouchy and ill-fitting to be gorgeous. Which makes you think, global warming notwithstanding, how did people even survive before the advent of air conditioning? What were the girlies of yore wearing in the sweltering summer heat?
The solution’s been right under our nose this entire time: Victorian underwear. No, we’re not talking about a saggy Hanes multi-pack. We’re talking thin, breathable, cotton undergarments laden with frilly little trims and intricate detailing commensurate with the Arts & Crafts movement of the time. Gorgeous works of wearable art by life-long tailors and seamstresses who were, at the time, unburdened by the plague of mass production quality dilution and the thick smog of a SHEIN market stranglehold.
But not all is lost! We can still take inspiration from our late 1800s counterparts and even employ some of their secrets for beating the summer heat.
A button-front corset cover with a sheer lace insert and delicate pink ribbons would’ve been far too scandalous to wear sans-overclothes back in the day — but, in 2024, it’s damn near modesty wear! Pair this with a white linen maxi skirt (which is technically from the Edwardian era… but don’t get too hung up on the details) and you are ready to hit the local farmer’s market at top speed.
Of course, there are plenty of places to source genuine Victorian undergarments. My favorite is El Baul Victoriano on Etsy. Based out of Málaga, Spain, owner Gonzalo sources uniquely beautiful antique pieces at decent prices. PetitTrousseau, also on Etsy, is another perfect destination for shoppers with an antique sensibility who aren’t afraid of a little sheerness (Me! Me! Me!).
Now, we have to address the elephant in the room. When dealing with vintage clothing — antiques especially — sizing becomes an issue. There’s just an incredibly limited size range available for clothes from that time period. But no worries! There are plenty of modern brands that either make reproductions of Victorian styles or develop garments inspired by the era.
The brand DÔEN has made Victorian-meets-Western-Plains style their bread and butter. Their Carina dress features the same cotton fabrication and eyelet detailing that we’ve come to know and love from the late 1800s. Their Tillie Broderie Top in Powder White is basically an exact reproduction of an old-style corset cover and the Leanne dress takes all the benefits of Victorian Undergarments (light fabric, breezy feminine style) and blends it with 1940s techniques (flattering shirring and triple waist detailing).
If you’re a stickler for historian accuracy, do NOT be afraid of high-end costume stores! In fact, just a blanket statement of advice: the only difference between “clothes” and “costumes” is the confidence you have in your own sense of personal style. Historical Emporium and MaddeVintageInspired can hook you up — you just have to let them.
Finally, just remember the three rules of Victorian linens and you’ll be good to go all year:
Natural Fibers Only! If it ain’t cotton, linen, or wool, we don’t want it! You need fabrics that wick the sweat away from the body, keeping you dry.
Cut-Out Details Are Your Best Friend. Whether it be a lace insert or eyelet detail, anything that encourages airflow is nothing but good news when it comes to your heat-wicking wardrobe.
Stay Away from Dark Colored Fabrics! I’m so, so sorry fellow goths. I know you don’t want to hear this, but darker colors do in fact absorb heat more quickly than lighter colors. 🌀
Kaitlin Owens is a vintage fashion writer, movie buff, lover of good eats, and a women’s size 7.5 (if any shoe brands are reading). She is the Editor-in-Chief of Dilettante Magazine. You can find her on socials @magdilettante.