For Coach SS25, relatability isn't enough.
The brand transformation of Coach from being one of many purses found at the back of your mom’s closet to being home to one of many it-girl bags worn by influencers and A-Listers, all within a decade, is something that should be studied in fashion history — and it's all thanks to Steven Vevers’ 10-year tenure as the house’s creative director.
Vevers’ vision for this collection was a study of American classics interpreted by a newer generation. Set in Manhattan's High Line Park, models walked the runway to upbeat, high school Garageband music. Classic “I Heart NYC” tees were styled with baseball caps and blazers, as seen on Ella Emhoff. Crewneck sweaters were personalized with graffiti-like notes. The neutral color palette of this collection and the relaxed, baggy fit of the clothes signal that perhaps the clothes themselves aren’t the focus, but instead a brazen love letter to Gen Z.
Indeed, Vevers’ gambit to cater to a new, bright generation with little care for fashion’s old norms has paid off, according to last quarter’s results, perhaps a little too well. Bag charms and stickers made an appearance, showing that customization isn’t going anywhere. The most exciting part of this collection was the giant coin purses (does Gen Z even use those anymore?).
There are a lot of tender memories I have with Coach. My parents were Coach fanatics back in the ‘90s. My father’s shoe rack was full of vintage Coach low-top sneakers, and my mother bought each iteration of Coach bag, from the Regina to the classic monogram flap bag every season. I remember going to a department store for back-to-school shopping in the late aughts, all just to buy a rather uncomfortable pair of ballet flats. We came out of the mall with pride — my mother delighted to pass down her Coach legacy to me. I was just happy that I got a pair of designer shoes. I can’t help but wonder if this brand loyalty from faithful Gen X’rs, like my parents, is the same type of loyalty Vevers is trying to instill in Gen Z.
While Coach is reveling in the fruits of its financial success, playing it safe can only work for so long. Can Vevers continue to innovate and adapt to Ge -Z's ever-changing whims? Or will the brand be left in the dust once more? 🌀 6.5
Niya Doyle is a forever East Coast-based writer, beauty buff, and cat lover.